But he also took the time to put together a step-by-step build tutorial. The process starts with paper templates. These are much easier to work with than metal stock so [David] spends quite a bit Currently, there are 20 results released and the latest one is updated on 08 Jan The above search results can partly answer users' queries, however, there will be many other problems that users are interested in.
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If you want to get more information about cooking tips, you can check it by yourself. EVA Foam Armor I do not sell finished armor suits. Please do not request commissions. Templates - The Foam Cave tip www. New Templates. This is my suit create last year from foam, Its my second suit of armor and I am currently working on my third.
For the purpose of ease, I will be showi…. Costume Templates The Armorverse hot thearmorverse. See more ideas about cosplay armor, foam armor, cosplay diy. May 3, 1 Hello, everyone! I thought I should make a new post for this since I've been getting so many questions. I have made a video going over every piece of my The Foam Cave - Foam props, templates, and tutorials new www. The pieces are screwed onto 2 inch nylon webbing with machine screws into holes designed into the back of the model.
Available now here. Includes templates for the body, arms, legs neck guard. Patterns are inspired by movie trailers but not accurate. PDF files are in "poster" format. Use Adobe Reader to open the files. Eva Foam Armor Templates - All information about healthy Before cutting the foam you can validate with the paper molds on your body.
Make relief cuts so that you don't get stuck in a maze of lines, otherwise you can always cut your way out. Now that the parts are cut, dry-fit them together to make sure that there re not overlaps or size differences between pieces that are supposed to connect to each other. Use a knife to trim off the excess and fit the parts nicely. With all of the parts cut out.
You are ready to glue them together. Withe them dry-fitted you should know about where the parts should connect, if not take a look at your 3d model. You also may have noticed that because of the thickness of the foam parts don't exactly fit well. This is because these parts were made to fit together as thick as paper, not foam. You may find that cutting the thickness of the foam off of a connecting edge will help reduce this.
To glue parts, simply put a line of hot glue onto one edge , and place the other on top of it. While the gluing is drying try to make the two faces that are now touching as lined up as possible.
This will make the armor look much better in the end. Once the initial glue has dried, flip the two pieces that you were gluing over, and put glue generously on the inside of the joint. This will further hold the parts together.
Note: If the glue that you are using is very hot an takes time to dry, make sure to keep holding the pieces together as this step may melt the initial gluing before drying. Continue gluing parts and strengthening them with glue, Try to keep glue on the inside of joints, and not the outside. You may have to bend the foam pieces to keep the shape of the model, once bent it should stay like that if it is glued to other supporting parts.
At this point in time, with all of the parts glued together, you should see the 3d model that you saw earlier in Pepakura emerging. If you can find any reference pictures from in-game, in-movie, etc use this for the final details. These will all be done by hand, so I recommend buying some thin craft foam. Use your free-hand skills to cut out pieces that most nearly match you pictures, and glue them onto the foam. Be original! You'd be surprised how easy it is to find the parts you need. I will try and keep this section updated as I find new things and as I remember them haha.
If you find anything that works good, drop a comment and ill put it in here. Now that you have everything completed, you are ready for the final step; painting. You may have noticed that the foam is not one smooth surface, it is filled with billions of tiny bubbles. If you try to spray paint directly over the bubbles, they will absorb the paint and the finished product will have a dull, grey- colored Finnish For a smooth glossy surface that wont be eaten by bubbles, buy a can or two of Plasti-Dip spray cans.
Its essentially rubber in a can, so it fills the little bubbles mentioned earlier. After the Plasti-Dip Dries, you can now use the spray-paint of your liking. To tape off areas that you don't want painted, use either painters tape or duct tape.
Both of these work great. After this, the choice is yours, you can hand paint things on it, airbrush it, etc. Its yours! Make it yours! Now that you are done, you can add whatever you want.
If you find that you want to add something to it, say you forgot a piece just add it and repaint. Anything extra such as lights, fans, and decals can easily be attached. Overall: Remember that there is no correct way to make your armor, especially if it hasn't been made before. For example, i found that you can make the edges of the foam have a "step" if you cut halfway down near an edge from the top, and then meet the cut line from the side.
As I said earlier, share your tips! It benefits the entire process. I sincerely hope that this tutorial helped you. I you have any questions, or if I haven't made a section clear enough, let me know with a comment or PM.
Only use high temp glue sticks other wise you run the risk of your costume melting in your car if its left in the sun. While gluing your project together keep in mind where and how you'll be fitting in the harness or how the pieces will attach to each other. Using your glue gun is pretty self explanatory but there are a couple tricks to keeping it easy and painless.
Put glue along the edge of what your gluing and using the tip evenly spread the glue across the edge and press the two pieces together. When you spread the glue out it will cool and harden much faster as well as creating a better seam. After the piece is secure from the glue on the inside or back side of the foam put some more glue to help support the two pieces.
Quick Tip : you may also do this on the show side of the seam and evenly spread it out to fill gaps and strengthen the bond. For larger gaps in the seams there is an alternative filler method using latex caulk, well get to that next step. Well be discussing seams and gaps this step In your build you'll have gaps in your seams or two much glue, its inevitable but don't fret! There are many ways to fix seams and Ill talk about the two main ones. Technique one: If you prefer to fill your gaps and seams with hot glue this is the method for you.
After this you'll notice the foam has become very rough, this is where the high grit paper comes into play. Using the or higher grit paper run over all the rough spots of the foam, this will smooth it out and bring it back to nearly the same smoothness as it was new.
Quick Tip : You may also use your heat gun to quickly seal the foam again, this will remove and burrs left from the sand paper but be careful not to heat it too much as it will melt the hot glue! Technique two: Use the nozzle of your hot glue gun to fill the gaps in the seam.
Get a tube of latex caulk and put a bead down the seam, using your finger simply smooth the caulk down the seam. The water will thin the latex and make it easier to create a smooth seam. Once its all evened out you'll notice your gaps are filled and will be easily painted.
Quick Tip: Wetting your finger will make spreading out the latex much easier, have a cup or bowl of water near by for this purpose and keep a damp rag or paper towel with close by in case you get latex where you don't want it. Test each technique to see what works best for you, you may find mixing the two techniques together works the best. Here well discuss the option of weathering and detailing.
Weathering is a term used by costumers to describe the technique of adding the appearance of use or damage. This step is optional but can really pull the look and feel of your costume together. To weather a costume, you'll need to randomly damage your pieces with the rotary tool and soldering iron by creating pits, scratches and dents. It helps to predetermine where are scarring will be by using a marker.
Mark up where you want dents, scratches and pits in the rough shape you want them to be. It takes some practice so you'll want lots of examples to look at. Try put scratches and chips on the edges of the armor and dents towards the center, make it look realistic and try to not get carried away. Quick tip: Practice, practice, practice on scrap foam. Get used to the thickness of your foam and how your tools work with it before weathering it and keep lots of reference photo's handy to generate ideas.
To create detailing such as bullet lines or shrapnel scratches use your soldering iron. Start with a round area created by the rotary tool and drag your soldering iron away from it with gradually less pressure. It will create a ridge in the foam and in the paint process you can color the ridge accordingly.
If you ever damage the foam to deep and go straight through it don't worry! Just put a scrap piece of foam behind it and glue it, you can either fill it with the caulk or just seal the gaps with glue and keep it as a dent. These images where used from a brilliant foam Space Marine build on obscurus crusade forum. You can check out the full build and costume here. This step is Prep and painting. Once your seams are filled and your armor is weathered its time to start the painting process.
EVA foam does not accept large amount of paint well by it self. It tends to soak up some paint and after its hardened it cracks. The best way to keep your paint from cracking or loosing color is to seal the painted areas with Plasti Dip or Mod Podge. I prefer the spray Plasti Dip but It's expensive because it needs layers before its ready for paint.
Plasti dip seals the foam as well as creates a rubber coating over the foam allowing it to still be malleable. It dries smooth and in most cases will fill small gaps. The spray can version works just like any other can of spray paint, once the surface of your armor is clean, spray it with 2 or 3 layers over the course of an hour.
Let it cure for a day before working with it again. Once your costume has been sealed you can paint it! This part its pretty straight forward just pick your choice of colors and paint layers of paint. I find Rustoleum paint works best cause ive just had way to many defective cans of krylon.
If your going for a metal effect do a base layer of bright metallic silver followed by a layer of "hammered" silver. It also comes in almost any metallic color so its also great for black or gold. There are a couple different ways you can simulate chipping in the paint.
You can do this by either creating real chips in the paint or paint on scratch with a silver paint. In creating real chips you start with a metallic base coat. Next you apply toothpaste or mustard yes the stuff you put in your mouth on the areas you wish to have chipped paint, such as around edges or in the scratches or dents you made then simply paint over it.
It works by letting the mustard or tooth paste become hard after being exposed the air. This allows you to paint over it and easily remove it. Once your choice of chipping sauce selected and you paint cured cured you can use your finger, ruler or a butter knife to scrape it off but don't use anything sharp like a chisel or scraper, it may puncture the foam.
Quick Tip: A ny tooth paste or mustard will do so buy the cheapest you can. In post-application scratching technique apply a base coat of silver metallic spray let cure then add your next color over it. Once the paint has set for a minute take take a variety of sand paper and scratch off bits of paint. This will simulate the chipping and scratch. After it cures you can go back with a medium grit and smooth out the scratches and add wear areas.
After you have completed your painting and chipping process go back and fill your dents, scratches etc with black paint. I just use a bottle of acrylic craft paint you can get at walmart in the art supplies section. This will give it a dirty and heavy use look, you can also use dark grey and browns to simulate ash or dirt.
Quick tip: When doing the post weathering paint, experiment with the colors and layer them, you can get some really incredible results. Once that's all done and you've let it cure for 24 hours you'll notice there may be a few gaps in the chipping paints and the weathering paint doesn't stay on great this is solved with a clear coat of spray paint.
You'll want to do a satin clear coat if your going for a weathered look and a gloss for a newer look. Even if you don't weather at all you'll still want to do this, it makes the paint look much more realistic These images where used from a brilliant foam Space Marine build on obscurus crusade forum. Almost there! This is the assembly and fitting step! Now that your project is cured and ready to go you'll need to be able to wear it and fit it to your body.
The most popular method is to attach it with straps with buckles. Be aware of where these straps and buckles are visible and hide them to the best of your ability. If they costume has visible straps use those for your fitting straps.
Use nylon webbing for costumes like the mass effect armors and leather straps and cording for costumes like dragon age. It all depends on how you want it to look and fit. I use nylon straps and buckles in varying sizes for the harness and hide the buckles under the armor plates.
You can get both the nylon strapping and buckles at craft stores how ever a great alternative is camping straps or luggage straps at your local Walmart. Quick tip: The most common mistake is making the harness not adjustable. If gain or loose 5 lbs it wont fit any more and you'll have to alter the costume to fit in it again. So always leave extra strapping on the buckles or add some elastic the the straps to give them a little give.
Bigger pieces like full plate armor or a space marine you'll want to create a harness. Simply make one out of nylon straps using a suspenders style connector in the back about shoulder height, don't make it too high up or it'll dig into your neck and not to low or it wont stay on your shoulders. When attaching it to the costume you can simply glue the straps with the buckle connectors to the costume it self. Hot glue will keep it there no problem as long as there is no paint over the area your gluing.
If it fails to stay onto the foam just use some basic lochtite epoxy. Quick Tip: If your having trouble hiding the straps or the buckles just give them some paint and they'll blend into the costume more. This works well for smaller pieces but but you sacrifice the fitted feel you would otherwise have with the harness. I would highly recommend that you sew or stitch the velcro to a piece of nylon webbing or any durable fabric.
Hot glue doesn't grip well to Velcro by itself. If you sew it to a section of of webbing or fabric then it will have something to grip to. When fitting you costume fit it comfortably to you, make it look like it was made exactly to fit you.
There shouldn't be any gaps between your costume and your armor and it shouldn't look bulky but it also shouldn't look to small. You don't want to be blue in the face because your chest piece is cutting off blood to your head. Break that costume in! Make sure it fits right and its comfortable, Then bring it to a con and show it off! The sky's the limit when working with eva foam, you can make small costumes or huge ones, it all just takes practice. This will be updated monthly because i'm always learning new trick and better ways to do things so check back often!
Hope you enjoyed reading and hope this instructable gives you the confidence to make your first costume or ideas for your next project!
Feel free to visit Towering Props on facebook and send me pictures of what you've completed using this tutorial. I love seeing the feedback from you guys! I'm a newbie when it comes to armor but I decided to give it a try!
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